ltwguns.com

Guys,
I rarely come on to a slide, extractor, firing pin stop combo that exhibits
zero clocking.
When serrating the rear of a slide, I usually end up adding silver solder
to the extractor's firing pin stop groove and remachining to fit.
Not only does this take time, but the end of the extractor frequently gets
quite hard!
I see from your pics that you have all found a solution.....
care to share?

_________________
http://www.rogersprecision.com

Hey Chuck,

Ive tried a couple different things for this problem and they all get ya where ya wanna go but depends on how much work you want to do. The easiest is an oversized stop if you can get the customer to splurge
that usually takes care of most of them. I have welded a small spot on the side of the firing pin stop usually you dont have to weld very much and the using the vise as a heat sink ive never had a problem with the heat having any ill effects on the stop. And I have silver soldered a shim to the F.P stop which is probably the least attractive but it works. Although you can usually mask it pretty well when refinishing it. Not that its in a visible place with the pistol assembled I would probably never do it to a customers gun just because to me it doesnt have the professional feel to it. I did that to an old franken pistol i had built from old parts i had laying around and it took care of the clocking problem. I have always modified the firing pin stop I have never tried to do it by modifying the extractor. I dont know if iam doing it bassackwards or not but it has worked for me. Iam interested to see what everyone else says I am always looking to learn a better way. The only way I was ever told to do it was the old method of peening the firing pin stop. Which is the way they used to make alot of things work like peening safetys and other things when an abundance of parts was not available. I have done the firing pin stop this way early on in my tinkering days which it worked for taking up very small amounts. But personally the hammer beating method of part fitting had never set very well with me. But I have been wrong before so who knows maybe they had it figured out.

Randy

_________________
RandyAdams
.http://www.firebladesystems.com
Specializing in Custom 1911s,Tactical Shotguns and Performance Glocks.

Dammit!
I must be the only one!
The slide determines the widest stop usuable. Most of the
time this still allows a bit of clocking.

_________________
http://www.rogersprecision.com

I see that situation a lot, too. I think a good many slides have off-spec extractor tunnel locations, to go along with the other variations. When I find an extractor groove that is lying below the groove for the FP stop, I start trying different replacement extractors, until I find one that has a shallow groove. I then fit an EGW F/P stop to the slide only and then fit the extractor's groove to the combination of slide & F/P stop. The only real trick to it is to find an extractor with a shallow enough groove. I wonder if either George Smith or Gary Smith would make up a small batch of extractors with the groove .010" or more undersize? Right now, I've been using Wilson Bullet Proof extractors, when I need a shallow one. I haven't found a slide so out of spec, that I had to add metal to the extractor groove, but I'm sure it'll get around to me.

_________________
shop.HarrisonCustom.com
www.HarrisonCustom.com

The grand essentials to happiness in this life are something to do, something to love and something to hope for.

I don't worry too, too much about clocking in terms of how the gun works. I feel it has to be excessive before it's a function problem. Less is better, agreed, especially if the back of the slide is checkered or lined. I just don't like to make things so tight that it's hard to get apart, and I guess I usually just get lucky when using a new extractor and new EGW oversize FP stop (or Caspian if I want stainless).

But I think the problem you're talking about here is holding it tight enough for matching lines or checkering, right? I mean so it doesn't turn on you half way through. I made a little tool, just a little chunk of aluminum, that slides into the slide from the rear, into the rail cuts, and comes to rest inside the hammer clearance cut. In the right side is a 1/8" hole into which a very short 1/8" pin fits. It is located so that the pin lines up with the rearmost flat of the extractor head. The outer end of the pin is flat and the inner is pointed or conical, just hadn ground to about a 90 degree point. In the bottom of the piece is a 10-32 threaded hole into which goes a cap screw also ground to a point. The two holes meet, so that when you slide the tool in, and tighten the screw, the pin is forced out, clamping the extractor head in place and even squaring-up the flat, so it is in the straight up-and-down position it will be in with a FP stop installed.

I've been using this dumb little thing since.... well, must be since about '85, 'cause that's when I built a comp gun for myself and you can still see how I screwed up the lines on the extractor head, so it woulda been shortly after that. The back surface of it is kinda rounded to match the slide rear profile, and it's all knarfed up from many a checkering and lining job but it still works.

Hey, how about an LTW line of gunsmithing tools?

Chuck, I'm Emailing you a sketch of this thing.

How much clocking are you getting? Are you having this problem with new parts or the old stockers? I have never had to deal with it being severely off Most of the time its just slightly skewed where a minimal of tinkering with f.p stop gets it done. I usually use E.B extractors and Brown or EGW firing pin stops. But Iam talking about an udersized F.P stop being the problem. And your problem is with the extractor being cut to deep or the actual extractor tunnel being offset so I been thinking about the wrong thing. It was late last night when i wrote that from now on I'll just go to bed

Randy

_________________
RandyAdams
.http://www.firebladesystems.com
Specializing in Custom 1911s,Tactical Shotguns and Performance Glocks.

John has the right idea. If they made the notch in the extractor .010" to .012" undersized they would probably work with just about all frame and F/P combos (fitting required). This is something Terry Tuessy and myself talked about almost a year ago because we are both picky about this. FYI I'm working on putting this dimension in a series 70 extractor that is a Brownells part. Did I mention the Brownells extractors are fully machined out of bar stock!

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Tony Barnes
Brownells, Inc

Tony,
That is great news and a great idea. I might be wrong but aren't you guys doing a stainless extractor now? In the future I would like to work on a stainless project, this might come in handy.

_________________
Heirloom Precision, LLC.
480-804-1911

"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking."
- General George Patton Jr

Hi Tony - What's the poop on the Brownells extractor? Is this a new part or do you already catalog it?

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Dave Berryhill
Berryhill Custom, LLC

Steve - Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I've been in Troy, NC for the past week and just got back. Yes we do have the stainless extractor in stock in series 70 and 80. I'm still working on the extractor with a .010" to .012" under sized notch. What we have is not in the catalog yet so here are the numbers.

078-000-031 blued series 70
078-000-032 blued series 80
078-000-033 SS series 70
078-000-034 SS series 80

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Tony Barnes
Brownells, Inc

Tony,

That's great news! I'll get some with my next order.

When the "shallow groove" extractors are available, I wanna be the first on my block to get some!

_________________
shop.HarrisonCustom.com
www.HarrisonCustom.com

The grand essentials to happiness in this life are something to do, something to love and something to hope for.

Good move, Tony. Something that's been needed for quite some time.

_________________
CT Brian Custom
'Blending Art With Firepower'