ltwguns.com

I have a Colt officer size, aluminum frame that was generously given to me from a customer, and I am going to do a build on it.

The problem is that the grip safety tangs are a little undersized and the front strap is a little thin for checkering.

I'm a pretty good TIg welder, but my father can weld 2 beer cans together. I was thinking of having him weld the frontstrap and cleaining it up and checkering it along with welding up the grip safety tangs and re-cutting them.

Other than the risk of Anodizing not being uniform (it is getting Black T'd when it's done anyway), is this going to be a big no-no for structure and rigidness of the frame?

Any insight from you gentlemen will be much appreciated.

Take care,
Bob

Bob, welding certain aluminum can rate from tricky to impossible. 7075 is an extremely difficult one. As I recall, John Harrison was telling me they've got a welder at Springfield Armory that can do it, but I'd sure contact them first to see.

As for a good TIG man, there's definitely a need among a LOT of smiths for a guy who can do nice microwelding.

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CT Brian Custom
'Blending Art With Firepower'

My father has discussed a lot of welding projects with aluminum - especially cast aluminum. In his experiences it has ranged from ok, but might not hold to blowing all over the floor and ruined.

The Colt aluminum seems to be somewhat of good quality, but I don't know for sure - that's why I am looking for some feedback.

CT, I appreciate the response. Any insight and suggestions are going to help me out. Since the frame was free, it's not like it is going to break me if it gets ruined, but I really don't want to ruin a nice Colt frame.

I guess I should ask if anybody has had any luck welding on Colt Aluminum frames, or should I be content with a slight gap in the back and not checker the frontstrap?

Once again, thanks for the response and any others will be much appreciated.

Take care,
Bob

You could do a 40lpi on the frontstrap or just serrations.

I always wondered why you couldn't weld up the beavertail fitting area and recut instead of the frame if the frame is a bit short? Or could you?

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Aluminum frames are usually a no-go.

You must first strip them.
The aluminum used in the frame is not normally considered weldable.
The heat used in the welding process would cause all the surrounding area to basically go dead soft. This would then require a complete T4 & T6 heat treat process again. I am not 100% sure, but I don't believe it would end up with the original material properties prior to welding.


Ray

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http://www.harmscustomdesigns.com

I've learned my lesson. After more years than I'd care to admit to, chanting the hero smith's mantra of "anything's possible - never say die, It can surely be made as good as new", I've learned to ask the important questions first.

1. How much is this frame worth, in comparison to one that's within workable specs?

2. How much will it cost me, in time, money, and frustration to hopefully end up with an acceptable frame?

3. Don't I have something to do that's eminently more profitable, and a much better use of my time and resources?

4. Will this "repaired" frame ever result in a gun I'd be completely proud of, and have absolute confidence in, or will it be a well polished turd, with all the corn kernels cleverly concealed (at least until someone refinishes it down the road)?

5. Is it something I'm willing to put my name on?

It usually makes the decisions a whole lot easier.

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Heirloom Precision, LLC.
480-804-1911

Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.

TR

Well spoken, Ted.
Talk about cut to the chase! How many of us are guilty of turd polishing in our chosen endeavor? Shoot! Some of our employers encourage it!

Good stuff there folks. Dont miss it.

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Redeemed

Ted,

I find it easier to polish them if you lay off the corn for a few days beforehand!!

You did hit the nail on the head however, in most anything, at some point it is easier to spend good money up front to get the right/better component.

John

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I will never forget you Lou......February 21, 2009

John Ralston
5 SHOT LEATHER, LLC - Finely Crafted Custom Handgun Leather

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Bob,
I agree with what Ted says and try to apply that logic to my day to day business. Setting that aside for a minute though, if I have research projects or personal projects to try to learn something or prove to my own satisfaction what is and isn't possible then I plow right in and see what I can glean from it.
My personal experience in having frames welded for mis-fit beavertails has been positive. On older Colt frames, I think the alloy that you'll encounter is in the 6000 series and can be TIG'd okay. In the newest frames, I think you're looking at 7075 and the outcome is less certain. Most folks tell you that it can't be welded. I've had it done a couple of times and it's pretty iffy. It seemed less than homogeneous when you cut into it. I expected to find voids but didn't.
I personally think that building up an entire front strap is not feasible regardless of material. It's just too much surface area, too thin an area and I think it will warp in the process. I think you'll also encounter voids that will require secondary welding to fill. Hope this helps and good luck!

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www.HarrisonCustom.com

The grand essentials to happiness in this life are something to do, something to love and something to hope for.

Thanks to each of you for your response.

John, I know all about finding the voids in welding. That .38 Super comp gun on my website had at least 20 trips to the welding bench when I put the skeletonized and hooked trigger guard on it. Weld it, clean it up, blast it, 4 pinholes?? Weld it, clean it up, blast it 7??? Weld it, clean it up, blast it 3?? Etc...

I thank you for your post sir, it is much appreciated it.

I completley forgot about the heat treating aspects of the frame.

Ted, there is a reason why many people hold you in such high regards, and you have just proved this yet again. Thank you very much for that post.

I have given up the idea of checkering the frontstrap, but might serrate it at 40 or 50 lpi.

I don't think the rear tangs should really not be affected by a lessening of heat treat by welding. I'll most likely use the 6000 series filler rod, and really build it up for recutting. This pistol is going to be one for my collection and display.

The frame does not have any finish on it at the moment so I don't have to strip it. I believe it will be Black T'd after I'm done.

Once again, thanks for all the responses, and thank you very much for your lengthly post Ted.

Bob

Undersize where? Could you use an S&A .220" radius GS? Those can be blended to nearly replicate a Brown if you are stubborn enough.

I did order the .220 radius after I held a Brown up on the frame and though "WOW, That isn't even close!"

After I got the .220 S&A grip safety, it fits, but still leaves an unsightly gap. Not too bad, but me being as picky as I am, I seek perfection so little, obvious gaps just bug me.

I'm going to re-evaluate the situation and determine just how much it's going to bother me having the gaps. As Mr. Yost explained - time, money, value...etc. All the factors need to be thought of before I make my decision and commitment.

The pistol won't be for sale when it's done, just another to fill in the gaps in my collection.

Thanks again,
Bob

Why not run with what's there? Minimize the grip size and shorten the back end with a spurless hammer and minimized tang instead of a beavertail?

I thought about that too, but I am a fan of the beavertail. I might try to make my own beavertail out of barstock. I've been machining for better than 1/3 of my life (I'm 30). It may be a little tricky, but it would be a great centerpiece for bragging.

I'm still undecided...one thing is for sure, I have paying customers to worry about in the meantime so this is a project that I can work on instead of twiddling my thumbs.

Bob